it is a Seabord Block M;
https://youtu.be/4kAr2wnvwO0?si=7nuVZrm9coLn_nNx
What’s new with Seaboard BLOCK M:
— Put Seaboard BLOCK M at the heart of your setup with a new MIDI out that enables direct control of other hardware instruments.
— Advanced customization of keywave response through a firmware upgrade, offering more nuanced MPE control.
— A more natural, intuitive playing experience with an improved velocity response curve.
— Durable design that has been refined to withstand the rigors of touring and extended studio sessions.
— Go computer-free with mode-switching on your BLOCK M – change between Single Channel, or MPE, and other modes once activated in Dashboard.
— Switch between your saved Equator2 or ROLI Studio presets by holding the side button and pressing the octave left and right buttons.
— Select your own ROLI Soundpacks to get you started with MPE.
the firmware will also come for the old Seabord blocks....
https://roli.com/products/blocks/seaboard-block-m
Roli Seaboard RISE
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- KVRAF
- 2851 posts since 8 Jun, 2018
Primoridal Music: sadà\exposadà - Indusrial & Expanding Your Mind Hurts: Sound Brut
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- KVRAF
- 35319 posts since 14 Sep, 2002 from In teh net
Will it align with my old Seaboard block though?
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- KVRian
- 1480 posts since 10 Jul, 2018
Do you mean will it connect via the Blocks connectors? It looks like it will. Lumi connects to the old Seaboard Blocks and it should certainly connect to the new Seaboard Blocks, so they should connect with each other.
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- KVRAF
- 35319 posts since 14 Sep, 2002 from In teh net
Connect, yes, but also still work as one surface and not have the 2 versions being too dissimilar for this to be usable
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- KVRian
- 983 posts since 23 Apr, 2003
We'll find out... 
I am at least excited that there will be a firmware update for the old blocks, too, which means that they are not becoming junk/abandonware. I am also wondering whether the new version has improved loading and energy management, something that I found quite unreliable with my old collection of blocks... In any case, further development of these is a good thing, as the blocks are really a wonderful controller, especially on the road (but also for a flexible modular setup at home or in the studio).
I just hope that the boss of the company doesn't mess it up ... again. The stories on the web are not reassuring. But yeah, second (or third?) chance, I guess.
I am at least excited that there will be a firmware update for the old blocks, too, which means that they are not becoming junk/abandonware. I am also wondering whether the new version has improved loading and energy management, something that I found quite unreliable with my old collection of blocks... In any case, further development of these is a good thing, as the blocks are really a wonderful controller, especially on the road (but also for a flexible modular setup at home or in the studio). I just hope that the boss of the company doesn't mess it up ... again. The stories on the web are not reassuring. But yeah, second (or third?) chance, I guess.
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- GRRRRRRR!
- 15997 posts since 14 Jun, 2001 from Somewhere else, on principle
I decided last week to throw my Seaboard Block away. A clutch of keys in the middle of the board have stopped responding and the top, squishy bit has now completely separated from the base of the unit. It's basically f**ked after about 4 years of hardly being used and kept in an airtight Pelican case when not in use. That's around US$500 down the drain. Yay!
NOVAkILL : Asus RoG Flow Z13, Core i9, 16GB RAM, Win11 | EVO 16 | Studio One | bx_oberhausen, GR-8, JP6K, Union, Hexeract, Olga, TRK-01, SEM, BA-1, Thorn, Prestige, Spire, Legend-HZ, ANA-2, VG Iron 2 | Uno Pro, Rocket.
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- KVRer
- 5 posts since 18 Apr, 2024
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- GRRRRRRR!
- 15997 posts since 14 Jun, 2001 from Somewhere else, on principle
Sadly, that won't fix the unresponsive keys, which is really the issue I need to address. I could spend $100 posting it to Roli to see if they can fix it, then be up for the cost of the repair and return postage or I could just write the f**king thing off. I've still got my Lightpad Blocks, which I use more anyway. But thanks for the tip, I do appreciate it.
NOVAkILL : Asus RoG Flow Z13, Core i9, 16GB RAM, Win11 | EVO 16 | Studio One | bx_oberhausen, GR-8, JP6K, Union, Hexeract, Olga, TRK-01, SEM, BA-1, Thorn, Prestige, Spire, Legend-HZ, ANA-2, VG Iron 2 | Uno Pro, Rocket.
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- KVRer
- 5 posts since 18 Apr, 2024
The plate that closes the contacts (top) is glued around the perimeter of the contact plate (bottom) with weak glue. The glue peels off over time and dirt gets in there. Needs to be disassembled and cleaned. You can (better) not glue it back, but connect it with the remaining glue, for possible subsequent cleaning.
It is also better NOT to glue the main silicone keyboard, but to connect it around the perimeter of the case with tape.
Silicone glue is only needed to repair a torn or cracked main keyboard.
Be careful with flat cables contact!
