Anyone got or built a Moffenzeef MSG?

...and how to do so...
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Im trying to work out a stripboard layout, and the parts list/build instructions dont quite match the schematic - the values of the ceramic caps dont match, but its not clear whether one has been changed or both. (they're numbered on the BOM, but not on the schematic and there's no PCB layout).

I suspect C1 is the one that's changed, to 330nF; it connects between pin 6 of the attiny and a non-wiper leg of what I believe is the volume pot, if that helps.
Last edited by whyterabbyt on Tue Jun 27, 2017 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
my other modular synth is a bugbrand

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I would have loved to see the schematics but Google does not know this word.
Is your post for real? 'Cause you know... KVR...

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vegaron wrote:I would have loved to see the schematics but Google does not know this word.

Funny, I use a version of Google that's capable of suggesting an alternative when there's a typo.

http://www.moffenzeefmodular.com/msg/
Is your post for real? 'Cause you know... KVR...
Realer than yours. 'Cause you know... KVR DIY forum....
my other modular synth is a bugbrand

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Google didn't suggest anything. Only four hits from your post here. I was not joking or trolling. :)

I think the cap at pin 5 is the one, which might have changed OR is wrong on the BOM. The cap at pin 6 is an electrolyte capacitor.

There are only two ceramic caps and the one across 4 and 8 is most definitively 100nF (VCC – GND). So I'm pretty sure the concerning cap is at pin 5. But I can't tell what its value should be. But I would try both. There should be no danger resulting from this spot.

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I believe vegaron is correct. Although they use those 'fancy' all black PCB which make examining the traces near impossible, checking the full resolution images you can see that C1 connects to pin 5 which is consistent with the schematic as a decoupling cap.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/moffe ... ep%206.JPG

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Ah, C5 is actually what I changed. Cant type for shit today it seems. Cheers.
my other modular synth is a bugbrand

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Hey! Ross here from Moffenzeef. The 330nf ceramic cap is used to debounce the switch located in the top left hand corner of the board. The value isn't very critical and I believe I shipped some kits with different values. The schematic reads 100nf for that cap rather than 330nf and that is an error on my end, I apologize for that. 330nf is preferred, but anything close will do the job just fine. That cap doesn't need to be polarized. If you have any issues please feel free to contact us at moffenzeefmodular@gmail.com (mailto:moffenzeefmodular@gmail.com). Please send us photos of your build when it is complete!

Thanks for having enough interest in our product to do this!

-Ross

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Oh also, you were correct in assuming it was C1.

C1 = 330nf
C5 = 100nf

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Hi Ross, welcome to KVR. Thanks for chiming in. :)
Checking out the moffenzeef Github now. Looks like a great resource!

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oops, I missed this. Many thanks for posting, Ross, very much appreciated.
my other modular synth is a bugbrand

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No sweat! Stay in touch! We've got another DIY kit coming out in the next month or so that will be right up your alley :D

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justin3am wrote:Hi Ross, welcome to KVR. Thanks for chiming in. :)
Checking out the moffenzeef Github now. Looks like a great resource!
Thank you! We try really hard to go over the top with documentation for DIY. I got all of my fundamental education in electronics and synthesis through DIY kits like this and eventually got in touch with people who could teach me how to make my own stuff and learn some of these topics in depth.

We're trying to provide easily digestible resources to encourage people to make their own stuff from the ground up and show them that it's not as scary as older dinosaur engineers will lead you to believe. I am by no means an expert or even a qualified electronics engineer and I want people to know that you don't have to be to make the things you want to make.

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